Thanks chaps - Chris, I connected the quadrant to it because I got it together with a Saitek yoke, and the one that comes with the yoke cannot be plugged in as an independant controller via USB. I have long since sold the yoke, and in any case, want only those controllers connected that I will use.
It's a similar story with the rudders from the G940. I was going to sell the G940 HOTAS and keep the rudders, when I bought the TM Warthog HOTAS, and again, without plugging into the joystick they would be useless. So they got connected to the BU0836X controller instead. As it turned out, the two helicopters in DCS World are far easier to fly with the G940 and its excellent force feedback - so I kept it.
Nevertheless, it helps that the rudders stay connected for all my flight sims regardless of which HOTAS or joystick I am using.
As for switching between sims, Dave, I have a solution for that. I use a laminated title sheet which I put over the top of the panels. When I change sims or aircraft, I swap the sheet and voila! The correct titles are shown
I did the same with my previous control panel, which was simply 32 push-to-make switches (the small, round ones) on a large, flat metal box. I had separate sheets for each aircraft and it worked so well, I decided to carry the idea over onto this one.
The title sheet is made in my painting program, printed out at 100% panel size, then laminated (often with a thin card backing to prevent rippling in the laminator) then cut to size and the shapes of the buttons cut out.
It can be a bit of a chore, but once it's done, it's done for keeps.
This was the old, simple panel:
and these are three of the title sheets I used (the FSX one was permanently fitted - these ones slipped over the top of it):
I even used them for racing sims I used to play online:
Hope this evokes some inspiration
EDIT: PS - anyone can do this kind of thing without the expense of a controller unit. In my original panel (way back...) I took the control circuit board out of a 12 button,4 axis gamepad and soldered the wires from the buttons to the relevant places on the circuit board. Then you simply plug it in (USB) and the sim or game thinks the original gamepad is plugged in. You get however many buttons there were on the gamepad, plus a couple of analogue axes for levers or trim wheels, tuning knobs etc. Works a charm!
Oh, and sorry for the horrid spelling errors on my web page - I will fix that forthwith.