Bought a new camera the other day!

Chris558 · Post by **Chris558** » 11 Jun 2006, 20:38

A Nikon D50 SLR Digital. And of course, for our hobby, I had to get a zoom lens aswell: a 70-300, but as it's digital, it's comparible to an 'old-type' Camera lens of 450 zoom...Nice!

On a bright day, the shutter speed is so fast, that it freezes Rotor-blades and Propellers - not usually very desirable, so I tried reducing the speed down a bit to create a bit of blur. After trying several different settings, thanks to a Grob Tutor doing endless circuits, and some Helicopters, I found an average shutter speed that worked. When I zoomed in on the LCD display to check the images I'd taken, I found, probably inevitably, that they weren't quite as sharp as they were before I'd adjusted the shutter. Apart from using a Tripod, are there any other settings I could change? or maybe just tell me to RTFM!!!

I need to get it sorted in time for Kemble Air Day next Sunday :wank:

Post by **DaveB** » 11 Jun 2006, 21:16

Chris..

If it's anything like my Canon, there will be a host of settings on the top that you can choose from... Sport, Landscape, Portrait e t c plus another lot of settings.. Program, TV, AV, Man. I generally use the last lot and in situations where the light is too bright (which would give too high a shutter speed in Program) I click it over to TV (Time Value) and choose a lower shutter speed.
Basically, if you're not fussed about the Auto this and Auto that.. use the manual modes in the same way you would on a normal SLR. Normal rule of thumb applies to Digi SLR's as applied to 35mm in that if you want to reduce the risk of camera shake.. double the shutter speed for the length of lens you're using. Eg 50mm use 100/sec.. 300mm use 600/sec. Nothing hard and fast about this but it keeps you in the right area

ATB

DaveB :tab:

TobyV · Post by **TobyV** » 11 Jun 2006, 21:21

Chris, have you considered a monopod or a bean bag? The monopod will eliminate shake a bit and is more flexible and portable than the tripod. The bean bag is great though. Theres a guy (I might be able to get his details again) who makes special ones, primarily aimed at wildlife photographers, that is designed to fold over a half open car window and provide a soft flat surface on whic hto rest your camera or lens. The bags themselves are about Â£12 and you'll have to fill it yourself (apparently dried peas are best!).

Failing this, there are techniques for holding and panning (just handheld) to reduce shake, purely using the way you stand or kneel and the way you hold the camera/lens and of course a bit of skill and practice.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » 11 Jun 2006, 22:46

Look for a nearby fence post or bin to stable the camera, car roofs are useful as well (doesn't need to be your car)

These methods don't usually let me down when i'm out without a tripod!

Nick

Post by **DaveB** » 12 Jun 2006, 00:11

Sri Chris and forgive me Toby but monopods are probably not the way to go. I actually typed something with a lot less tact than that and erased it!

Imagine walking down the street with one leg in someone else's trousers and you'll see where I'm coming from!

If, however, you're used to using a tripod for taking this type of shot.. then perhaps you won't get that 'remote' feeling I got when I tried one

A bean bag and a fence post is a better idea though for me.. point and shoot from the hip works best (eg.. set it up and fire when you see a shot you like). You will soon get used to the idea that you can shoot to your hearts content without paying one penny more which will make you a little more daring but can also lead to an overall degradation in the quality of your shots. Reason for the latter being that you keep hitting the button with a lesser respect for what may ultimately turn out. It's not gonna cost you to have em developed so who gives a toss

Look back in 12months time and note the counter on your camera then convert that into x36 and times that figure by say, a fiver.. and you'll find that you will have saved a fortune in developing costs and still turned out with a nice selection of 'Keeps'

ATB

DaveB :tab:

Chris558 · Post by **Chris558** » 13 Jun 2006, 21:57

Thanks Guys, but panning on a monopod, tripod (or ipod

) is not very easy, and I don't think it's camera shake anyway. It's really just a case of having the props/rotors not looking like they'd just suffered from an engine failure :shock: If I adjust the shutter speed only very slightly, it seems fine.

Anyhow, photography is all about compromise :think:

Vulcan_to_the_Sky! · Post by **Vulcan_to_the_Sky!** » 14 Jun 2006, 10:10

This sharpness issue is a problem with Digital SLR's.

I've got a possible solution, which works with my D70. Since they are similar, heres what I do...

1. Go into menu, then into the shooting menu..and go to optimise image, and then to custom, and set the sharpening setting to highest setting. If this doesn't cut it, which occasionally it wont, then add a sharpening filter in Photoshop.

hope this helps.

ianhind · Post by **ianhind** » 21 Jun 2006, 00:36

What make of zoom lens did you buy?

And from whom?

I'm going to splash out one day soon (especially having seen your photos of Kemble) so might as well pick your brains

blanston12 · Post by **blanston12** » 21 Jun 2006, 00:46

I have almost the same setup with the D70s instead of the D50.

Which 70-300 lens did you get, they make a cheap one and one with ED glass, although that should not make that great of a difference.

if its camera shake you can try a monopod (already suggested I know), you can also increase the effective film speed by adjusting up the ISO setting, that will allow an increased shutter speed and less noticable shake.

Nikon makes a real nice 80-400 lens with built in vibration reduction, but it probably costs more than the camera and lens you just bought (its on my wish list).

Or drink less coffee.

Kevin Farnell · Post by **Kevin Farnell** » 21 Jun 2006, 01:02

Chris558 wrote:A Nikon D50 SLR Digital. And of course, for our hobby, I had to get a zoom lens aswell: a 70-300, but as it's digital, it's comparible to an 'old-type' Camera lens of 450 zoom...Nice!

On a bright day, the shutter speed is so fast, that it freezes Rotor-blades and Propellers - not usually very desirable

Chris,

This is a problem faced by all aviation photographers.
My best advice is to learn to 'pan' and then expect at best 1 in 10 photos to be of high quality.
To 'pan', follow the aircraft, press the shutter and continue to follow the aircraft after the shutter has released - try to keep the motion as smooth as possible (a monopod can help).
I also use a 70-300mm lens (Nikon 70-300 F4 - 5.6 ED, on a Nikon D100) and find that a shutter speed of 1/500 sec will give a slight blur to props, while freezing the aircraft. With a good 'panning' technique, 1/320 sec or lower will give better results.
Set the camera to 'shutter priority' and select the desired shutter speed. As DaveB says, do not use the camera program modes.
Panning takes some time to master and you may not be ready for Kemble, but keep at it and you will be richly rewarded.

Don't forget to change back to a fast shutter speed for the fast jets!

Looking forward to seeing your pictures.

Regards.

Kevin

Classic British Flight Sim

Bought a new camera the other day!

Bought a new camera the other day!

Re: Bought a new Camera the other day!